The best jewelry detectives know that leftover components from earlier periods were sometimes used by frugal jewelry manufacturers, however, and clasps might have been replaced over time as well. In addition to examining the components and findings, you’ll want to look at the overall style, examine for signs of repair, and use a jeweler’s loupe to locate any identifying marks present as you’re dating jewelry. Use the basics below to help you start learning how to identify and date a number of different types of antique and vintage brooch and pin styles. These are usually rather large brooches and they fasten with a simple “C” closure (see below) without a safety mechanism. Common examples are made of brass, enameled or painted base metal, or silver-plated base metal. They range from simple rectangles or ovals to very ornate in design with flowing Art Nouveau motifs. The most common early version of the “C” clasp used prior to the 1890s looks more like a curled wire. Pieces incorporating the earlier style also have a tube-shaped hinge for the pin stem, and sometimes the point of the pin stem will extend beyond the edge of the brooch. Some pieces of inexpensive jewelry made during the 1930s and through the decades since then have used a variation of the “C” clasp that is more square looking than rounded. Be sure to look at the overall style and materials when dating pieces using “C” catches. This type of pin was developed in the early 1900s as a means of holding the ends of the newly fashionable turn-down collar in place and could be simple or adorned with jewels. They grew increasingly ornamental (as opposed to functional) as the 20th century wore on. They were primarily used by men, though when first introduced, women used them as well when wearing collared blouses. Larger versions were sold singly. Smaller examples were often sold in pairs or sometimes as part of a “duette” (see below). The more petite clip duos were worn in various ways including at the bottom corners of square necklines. They can sometimes be confused with shoe clips. Collectors have adopted the generic name “duette” when referencing this type of convertible jewelry. Other companies made versions of this style of clip/brooch mechanism, like Trifari’s Clip-Mates first made in the mid-1930s, and they can also be found unmarked. As with dress clips, the larger versions of pin clips were usually sold singly. Some smaller pairs of pin clips were also marketed, but they are not as common unless found as part of a duette. These pins were originally used to decorate, or fasten, a dangling ruffle known as a jabot worn by men on the front of shirts and women on the front of dresses dating to the 17th century. But as an article of jewelry, it came into its own around the turn of the 20th century and flourished through the 1930s as a prime piece of Art Deco ornamentation. This pin style was worn on cloche hats, lapels, shoulders, and even handbags. They can be found made of precious metals and gemstones as well as costume jewelry examples. In the 1920s and 1930s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches (named for the “click” made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin). This is one of the most common types of clasps used on costume jewelry from the late 1920s onward, and it is still in use today. Many times it is referenced as a “modern” safety clasp. Because this finding has been in use for such a long period of time, it is paramount to look at the overall design elements and components used when dating jewelry using this type of clasp. The name references the way the round end pulls out, like a trombone musical instrument, to release the pin stem.
